Gaja Idda Sicilia Bianco 2021
(not yet reviewed, 2020 review for reference)
93+ points - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, July 2021
Hitting the market now, the 2020 Sicilia Bianco can perhaps be described as more Mediterranean in character next to the previous 2019 vintage (also tasted in this mini vertical) that appears more flamboyantly Sicilian in personality. This wine offers a greater level of depth and grace, and the inner complexity is also a far step above the other two releases. The main reason for this noticeable change is the increased presence of Belpasso fruit. This is one of three vineyard sites on Etna farmed by this formidable Gaja and Graci team, and it's the vineyard that shows the most promise, especially with regards to age-worthy whites. This bottle should hold up to the 10-year mark. Seeing partial malolactic fermentation, this wine is very specific to Carricante, with tangy citrus notes and orchard fruit followed by Mediterranean shrub oak and salty marine breeze. It is tonic, sharp and "electric" (a descriptor I eagerly borrow from Alberto Graci). This wine makes the argument that Carricante IS the vinous protagonist of Etna. - Monica Larner
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